Neither exotic nor homey - Malta

You go to places. You have expectations. You do extensive planning, spend ridiculous amount of money to take cattle class in shit airlines to reach your dream destination. And bamm, in a split of a second you realize it was a bad bad choice.

I thought to myself, maybe I need to scratch below the surface to find something interesting but all I could find is yet another destination invaded by the Russians and British in their ever longing quest to find places to soak in the sun, but instead making the island into gloomy, expensive and dysfunctional place. An island full of under-staffed restaurants serving large portions of everything, liquor shops advertising discounts for students, do as-little-as-possible hotel employees, self-claimed universities trying to teach English to everyone including the Brits and realtors luring those fat rich brats to expensive sea-facing properties. Oh I forgot to mention about the silent city of Malta where you can visit the dungeons, probably an inspiration behind “Fifty shades of Grey”

Yes, I’m indeed talking about Malta. May be i gave up too early to bother to look at the hidden charm and beauty of the world's smallest state.

If you are one of those tourists who would like to visit every UNESCO heritage site on this planet, you will not be disappointed as Malta has quite a few of them. If you are interested in history, once again Malta will be of deep interest as the island has been reigned by many empires and rulers before gaining independence in 1964. Malta is also a favorite destination for hollywood and its several mega-budget movies.

People who read my blog may have realized that I travel for food, as food not only defines the culture but also the character of a country and its people. Malta supposedly has some really good Maltese cuisine if you can find one. Apart from that you can find many self-acclaimed world’s best Italian, Mediterranean and Chinese cuisine, and indeed they are the worlds best if you have never stepped outside the Maltese island.

If you do happen to be on this island, some of the good restaurants you should try are Gozitan (just wear your patience hat as you will have to wait for a long time for your food) and Gululu. There are some other decent restaurants such as Tarragon, Blue Elephant and de Mondion but be prepared for some serious harm to your wallet.

Gastronomic eroticism in Barcelona

There is food and then there is food. There are places to eat and then there is Barcelona. The notion that the "world is flat" is crap and I don’t think it will ever be flat, at least in the culinary world. The inconsistency has lot to do with the culture and history of any country, and even after centuries of transformation certain things are so deeply rooted in any society that it is impossible to change, in a good way. No wonder one place can be in food mecca while the other food hell, even though the two places may be just one-hour-flight distance apart, because the concept of good food is more than products that one can import from other countries. Food is a desire, a fantasy, a habit, and a life style. Good food not only delights your taste bud, but almost gets you high in every way.

Barcelona is undoubtedly that food heaven From Boqueria market to the tiny cafes to the numerous tapas bars to the molecular gastronomic experience at the high-end Michelin restaurants, the food is not only appealing, but almost provocative, teasing and tempting all your senses. I’ve never been so confused except in a discreet group of open-minded people where anything goes (I think there is a term for that)

People in Spain take their food seriously, very seriously, in a good way. A trip to Barcelona, though short, has forced me to reconsider my previous post “Why Japanese restaurants serve the best food in the world?” Irrespective whether the Spaniards consider food as art or science, the outcome is brilliant.

So what makes food in Spain so interesting? Yes, the striking history has to play a part. Yes, European laid-back attitude of sitting at dinner table for hours has to play a part in it. Yes, Spain's proximity to the sea making sea-food as one of the key pillars to Spanish gastronomy, rich terrain that produces some excellent wines  and other fresh products has to play part in it as well. But above all it has to do with the rich culture of living life, for enjoying the simple pleasures of life. There is nothing more pleasurable than food, especially with friends and family around. The Spaniards know that very well and they wouldn't give up their Sobremasa (art of conversation after meal over a drink) and Siesta (rest after a splendid meal) for anything else. 

There is no typical Spanish food, as it never existed. It is one of those cuisines that have been influenced by so many different settlers that passed or settled in Spain, from the Greeks to the Romans to the Phoenicians. However it is said that the Moors (medieval Muslim inhabitants) during their centuries of reigns, influenced and transformed the Spanish cuisine most. The only good thing in Columbus’ historic voyage and discovery of America is that it brought in many new products such as potatoes, chocolate, beans etc. from the new lands, that once again integrated perfectly to create new flavors. So you see food can also give you a taste of history. May be we should incorporate food as a subject in our education system.

Unfortunately I got to taste only a piece of what this incredible country has to offer, but what a taste that was !! 

Places not to be missed: Boqueria market, Quimet y Quimet, Gelonch, Cal Pep and Bar Del Pla. Restaurants that I couldn't try but rank highly are Tickets, Dos Palillos, Gaig and Cinc Sentits

I completely submitted myself to the gastronomic delights of Barcelona. It was a gluttonous week and I was greedy for more, so my next stop was Sicily to seek more culinary pleasures.

Sedate your time at Can Dao, Vietnam

Cities I dwell in surrounded by friends
Friends who fill my loneliness
Only to cast away from friends into remoteness
Isolated and desolated islands with sand in my hand and wind on my face
Peace in mind and no more the chase

When I look at the globe, Hong Kong is marked with a small dot, but yet home to almost seven million people. In this vertical city, like many other metros people eat, sleep and breathe chaos. Not surprising that very often I feel like running away from the claustrophobic trains, crowded markets and smelly taxis; run away to far far away islands where all I’ve is Mother Nature.


This time, we decided to once again explore Vietnam and took a trip to of Con Dao, a cluster of 16 island at the southern tip of Vietnam. Islands that served as prison cells during the French Colonial era and later Saigon regime imprisoned the opponents of the regime in its infamous cells known as “tiger cages”.

That was past, but now it serves as life cell to boost life into people like me, searching for isolation and seclusion. The islands have got everything that one can ask for and one could very well live “Eat, love and pray” life on these islands.

Like every other emerging country, there is some chaos in this country but it is good chaos; chaos that makes your trip memorable. Before we even started the trip I got a notification that Vietnam Airlines has canceled the flight from Con Dao to Saigon, forcing me to stay additional day/s on that island. Unfortunately I could get a seat on another airline – Air Mekong, only to cut my stay short by a day.


Ninety percent of tourists in Con Dao are local Vietnamese people who visit the island for its interesting and rich history, and many to visit the graves of 20000 or so prisoners who died here during imprisonment. This means that the island is not spoiled by a splurge of hotels catering to the rich Chinese and Russians. But that was true only until recently when the first luxury resort was opened by Six Senses. And there you go; the island will now be on a fast track to becoming a booming tourist destination filled with McDonalds, bars filled with loud sub-whoppers and “happy ending” massage places. But I shouldn’t be complaining, at least not yet.

Like most foreign ignorant tourists, we booked ourselves at the luxurious Six Senses resort. The resort which is built on a beautiful beach has all water-front villas and most of the all wood villas have private infinity pool. The staff is very friendly and service impeccable. All this naturally comes at a price, but with cheap money funneled by central banks around the world, money is a problem for another day.

The island is also a breeding ground for turtles that come on the island to lay eggs from June to September every year. It is something not to be missed, so I have heard. I was so busy that I didn’t find time to do any activity. My days were packed with beach, pool, nap and beach again. I had to top all of that with good food and beer. Yes indeed, it was tough but I somehow managed to fight it for few days.

With very few tourists the beaches, forests and lagoons are unspoilt and untouched. Mostly you will have the whole beach and ocean to yourself. It’s a natural paradise, at least for now.

“Ja jee le apni zindagi” (Go, live your life) as famously said in a Bollywood movie.

Piquant Penang

Two guys are walking up and down, their eyes fixated on people to make sure that no one is engaged in prohibited activity. I bend my head, trying to hide behind a seat, making sure that no one is looking and sneak out a packet from my bag. Just then, hungry eyes prowl on me from two seats away, sending a message “I want a cut or I’m calling in”. Ignoring him, I take my chances and put the chips in my mouth indulging in piquant pleasure. 

This is not a story from the war front, but from AirAsia flight where passengers should buy food (and even water) on board or face starvation.

I was headed to Penang, the food mecca of Asia and I was not ready to succumb to airline food.

The destination - Penang

Penang, an island occupied by many different forces including the British, Germans and Japanese historically. A city was once a staging post for the opium trades between India and China. A city where East India Company auctioned off licenses to gambling dens, brothels and opium traders (which accounted for approximately 60% of colonial Penang’s crime). A city that was bombed during wars, rocked with riots and bloodsheds between civilians. An island that continues to charm and attract people from all around the world with its colonial street names, heritage buildings and most importantly its fascinating food influenced by various ethnic groups that migrated to this little island over the many years, since it was founded in 16^th century.

The food (Muthu’s banana leaf rice)

I’m a big fan of Anthony Bourdain’s “No reservations” because he manages to explore some of the best food in every city. I wish I had more time to explore the unexplored, but given the time constraint I normally just create a list of cuisines/restaurants, following the traces of other popular food enthusiasts.

Based on Anthony Bourdain’s recent trip to Penang, I had already put Muthu’s on top of my list, which serves traditional banana leaf rice. A small, shabby looking hidden den without any sign board is very easy to be overlooked. Even if you did manage to take a sneak peak, you would quickly write it off, thinking of it as a place that serves food to the less privileged. This little place without any décor or ambience has a high turnover where customers don’t sit sipping drinks and gossiping. The rule is simple: sit, eat and get out.

Don’t let your eyes deceive your taste buds with the trashy ambience, and just relish the food, which really explains why the Portuguese and British traveled all the way to the east in search of spices. The spices seemed to be in perfect harmony, reflecting the skills of the chef who can use the same set of spices to create so many different flavors.

Unlimited rice, assortment of curries, pickles, curried meat/fish etc would cost you less than two dollars. Obviously there is a reason that there is no sign board.

Some more food (New Lane Hawkers food)

We decided to explore the popular New Lane hawkers’ street. The lane was buzzing with numerous small stalls. Looking at all those stalls, I felt like a little boy left alone into the candy store.

The long queue at the Char Koay Teow stall was not going to dampen my spirit. After a 30 minutes wait, I had my prized treasure in my hand. The prawns, eggs, chilly, clams and flat noodles cooked perfectly in a wok, over burning hot charcoal, exquisite blend of texture and taste. This one dish was worth the trip to Penang. We also tried few other dishes but nothing could beat Char Koay Teow.

And then finally some more food (Halal food at Restoran Sultania)

It was already Sunday and it was time to go back. Time was slipping away but our quest for good food continued. Like a little kid, the more we got, the more we wanted. We had already tried Malay and Indian food, and Halal food was next on the list.

We decided that if we cannot stay back for dinner, why not take dinner with us to Hong Kong. We got packed two portions of chicken biryani packed from the halal Restoran Sultania. When we reached home, we make some lentil curry, popped open a bottle of wine and continued to relish Penang delicacies.

The Balkan Journey - Chapter 2: Croatia

Trains are my favorite part of the journey. It gives you a real sense of travel as you breeze pass the small houses, farms, railway stations; waving adiós to people, but really sending them a telepathic signal  “yes, I am going to explore new places while you continue with your usual boring life here”. So I took a lazy train, albeit it was tagged as express, from Budapest to Split to explore the beautiful landscape of both the countries. It was an unique experience, least to say, from the point I boarded the train.

At around midnight we saw some gypsies on the train, only to realize they were border control officers, on board to check our passports.

I handed over my passport and he asked me annoyingly,”I need a photo id of yours”

I replied hesitantly “I just gave you my passport and that is my photo id”. 

He looked at me irritated and commanded in a clear, loud voice “I need some other id so that I can make sure this passport is real”.

I searched my wallet and handed over my Japanese driving license (which is all in Japanese but had my good old picture). The officer matched the picture of the passport to the license, stamped my passport happily and moved on.

Lesson learned “If you can’t convince someone, then confuse them” and that is exactly what the officer did to himself.

Early morning we caught the first glimpse of Split, and it looked absolutely picturesque, but as soon as I got off the train station, the feeling of  “most beautiful city in the world” or “Mediterranean summer”, as the locals call it, vanished quickly. It seemed more like a busy port, full of tourists and back packers who were waiting for small boats to luxury yachts and mega-ships to carry them to “far far away islands”. First impression can be deceptive though. As you roam around this historic city, centered on the beautiful Diocletian palace, you quickly get mesmerized by its beautiful architecture, squares and churches.

By the day, you can explore the small shops in and around the palace, walk on the waterfront, enjoy kremšnite (creamy cakes) at its numerous bakeries and cafe or simply sunbathe on its small but characteristic beaches. By the night, you can have drinks at the small bars lined up on the steps inside the old town or groove your move at the many clubs on Bacvice beach where partying strictly starts after midnight.

One of my stranger-waiting-to-be-friends from Split told me that food in Split is simple and boring yet flavorful and scrumptious. The food is influenced by many different cultures and regions such as Slavic, Hungarian, Turkish, Greek and Italian, naturally making a very interesting cuisine. Some of my favorite spots

Konoba Nikola – A small restaurant just outside the city serving simply the best grilled fish and sea food in the whole of Split. Mostly popular among locals, you will not know this place unless someone spills out the secret.

Konoba Marjan – Near the waterfront towards Marjan hill, this small restaurant serves delicious fish and is rated highly on all travel websites.

Zrno Soil – A relatively new name in the small list of upscale restaurants, with a breath-taking view and equally amazing food.

Pizzeria Galija – One of the oldest pizzeria. Good food but poor service. Don’t bother to order anything other than pizza.

I am sure there are many other experiences in Split and I wish I could try them all, but as a traveler I had to move on to explore a new unkown.

My trip to Croatia was more like a teaser as it was short-lived and did not take me to any popular destinations such as Dubrovnik and Hvar, but it still showed me Split - a jewel in the crown of Croatia. 

The Balkan journey - Chapter 1: Belgrade

As a 35 year old teenager when I decided to visit Serbia, all my friends grinned that I picked up that destination due to its popular nightlife. Having been there I’ve to admit that the night life is sensational and popular for good reasons. Apart from the undeniable reasons, I did not expect much out of the Balkan nation that is known for all the wrong reasons, including its history of fighting countless wars. For me it was a thrill of exploring a new country especially with a Serbian friend who happened to be in Belgradeand generously offered me to show her city.

Just after landing in Belgrade I was very disappointed to see, what can be called a modern infrastructure. I come from India and given the hype on emerging countries like India and China, it was disappointing for me to see that a country like Serbia can have such good infrastructure, especially a nation that was bombed just two decades ago. I am not sure which part was disappointing, that Belgrade had such good roads or unadopted Indian roads that are like a slap on your face as soon as you land in the city.

Driving from the airport through the new Belgrade to the old Belgrade is like cruising through a time machine at instant speed. All the history that you have read about the Balkan nation starts flashing in front of your eyes as old historic buildings, graffiti on walls, orthodox churches, bombed buildings, empty hotels, hot Serbian gals and we-do-nothing youngsters sitting in numerous cafes all over the city.

The city is like none other in the Balkan region or even the whole of Europe. At the confluence of two large rivers the city has a character like none other. The city is like the wine that is complex yet elegant, powerful yet up front, bold yet easy-drinking, age-worthy yet matured. It lingers on you for a long time.

It is one of the few cities in the world that has been bombed so many times and yet it has recovered every time and recovered gracefully. You can witness debris of a destructed building in the heart of the city like a wounded soldier who just returned for a war along side a fancy café where young Serbs passionately indulge in their national hobby of watching beautiful Serb gals.

The city, which through out the history has been at the crossroads between the west and orient, is located at the confluence of Sava and Danube rivers that adds a different charm to the city. One can witness the different era and style of Belgrade at every bank of these rivers, from the typical European style architecture in centre historic town of Zemun to the modern buildings in the new Belgrade. The most recognizable and distinct feature of Belgrade is the floating cafes, river clubs or barges that are spread along the banks of the rivers.

Naturally Belgrade is a sharp contrast from the rest of Serbia where massive urbanization has made Belgrade home for more than 1.5 million Serbs, accounting for more than 20% of the total population of Serbia. This has led to increased unemployment which currently hovers at around 23%, putting more pressure on the already fragile economy. The Serbs need to go back to the fields and plow the rich agricultural land. Very few countries in the world have such vast farm land like Serbia and the Serbs naturally ought to use that to build their nation and economy.

I am no expert on the Serbian economy but as an outsider I found the city exceptionally beautiful and worth exploring, so definitely put it on your Bucket List and you will surely witness something truly majestic.

People in Serbia naturally like to eat and it is very obvious from the variety of food they cook, which has elements of former Yugoslavian cuisine as well as the Ottoman Empire, while Austrian and Austro-Hungarian rule richly influence the Serbian desserts. Serbs love their meat and dishes such as Cevapcici (ground meat sticks) validate their love for good food. Another popular dish is pies and Burek tops the rank. Its flaky, greasy pastry filled with cheese or meat but I promise that you will not stop eating it once you try. I found the food a bit too salty but that would not keep me from enjoying the delicious Serb cuisines.

Overall Serbia is a hidden gem in Europe and will definitely become a hot tourist destination as people know more about it. 

Tranquilize yourself with mystical wats and royal hedonism of Laos

If traffic snarls, shops lined with fake Louis Vuitton handbags and the doof-doof sound from open bars and clubs is not your style of vacationing in south-east Asia, then head to Luang Prabang, at the confluence of Mekong and Nam Khan river, nestling its 28,000 residents, numerous beautiful wats (temples) and saffron-robed monks.


The pace is slow, relaxed and life-like. The air smells raw and natural. People are honest, courteous and chilled-out. Though the place is fast developing, like most countries in this part of the world, it has so far managed to keep its values and traditions intact. You can still see monks, at dawn each morning, walking barefoot through the silent streets of Luang Prabang, with their alms bowls accepting food. It is a strict ritual they are expected to follow diligently. You can still cross the river on fragile bamboo bridges. You can still meet souls that value principles over money.


Very few places on this planet have a unique mix of old charming roads, beautiful architecture, great food and welcoming people, while not swamped with tourist buses.


Its main historic center - Luang Prabang was hit hard in 1893 after attacks from the Chinese and the king sought protection from the French, whose grand European architecture still stands alongside the existing temples. The last king lost his throne, as well as his life, when the communists seized control of the French colony. After all the dust was settled, Luang Prabang was open to tourism only two decades ago and was bestowed with UNESCO world heritage status in 1995, which has helped the city to preserve and enhance its old charm as well as gain recognition with international travelers.


There are plenty of places to experience the colonial past and the French influence. Many restored colonial buildings - that includes the former royal palace, former jail and detention center, a French hospital- all of which have transformed into "experience of a lifetime" hotels.


Take a stroll on the banks of Mekong, laze around in small cafe across the Nam Khan river and then finally spend the evening savoring Mekong sea weeds and Lao beer, watching the sun shy away into the mountains across the Mekong, splashing beautiful orange strokes in the sky.


It was also interesting, though it may come as a surprise to many people living in fast-paced, concrete verticals of large metro cities, that these people are truly happy even with their minimal lifestyle. Their faces radiating contentment and gratitude to this wonderful thing, called life.


Though i could only visit Vientiane and Luang Prabang, I am sure there are other interesting places to visit in Laos. Some recommendations for people interested in food


Vientiane
Amphone - Probably the best restaurant for Lao cuisine. The setting and decor is simple but elegant. The menu small but interesting enough, even for Anthony Bourdain who picked up this restaurant to introduce Lao cuisine in his show "No reservations"
La Silapa - Small, elegant and romantic French restaurant with some classic French food.
Jomo Bakery - Probably the most popular hang out for all tourists. Bakery items are average but have an extensive menu, and just the casual ambiance is good enough to hang out for few hours every day


Luang Prabang
L'elephant - Definitely a place to enjoy Lao as well as French food.
Dyen Sabai - Some interesting traditional Lao food but just the journey to this restaurant as well as the location makes it special.
3 Nagas and mango tree - Decent food but great ambiance, especially if you get a table under the mango tree
Nameless - There is one small joint in front of L'elephant which serves one of the best noodle soups.


Countless street-side stalls - The best Lao food is served in countless small restaurants that you won't find in lonely planet. People are friendly and happy to cook anything that you like. 


Put Laos on your bucket list and visit this natural beauty before mankind spoils it, with its quest of erecting buildings that touch the moon.

50 places to visit before I enter 40's club

Traveling is addictive. So many places to see with limited amount of time, money and miles you have. It is interesting that there is no universally accepted stats on the number of countries on this small planet and the best answer is somewhere around 195. Do you think anyone has visited every single country? Am sure there must be some free-spirited soul, who has wandered the globe to step his foot on every single country but unfortunately most mediocre souls like myself is busy building up retirement pension, and we still believe that we will be able to get some benefits when we grow old and feeble. 


I came across an interesting website recently http://mosttraveledpeople.com/ whose members claim that the world is made up of of 872 countries, territories, autonomous regions, enclaves, geographically separated island groups, and major states and provinces. To visit all 872 would be to go everywhere. How many have you visited?


I think traveling is fun because it accumulates memories that can help us live in peace and die with a smile. Most materialistic things such as bags, cars, houses etc bring momentary satisfaction for individuals that believe in collectivism rather than Objectivism (as Ayn Rand defined in her book "The Fountainhead"). Lets leave philosophy aside & keep it simple!! Traveling provides wholesome experience to all  our senses. One can not only experience the sights but also the food, culture, traditions, festivals etc. Everything seems to be new and exciting (except the horrible cattle class on airlines). It is truly a complete package of pleasure . 


Mark Twain summed it up "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sail. Explore. Dream. Discover"


I'm now compiling the list of countries (or rather places) that I'd like to visit in next few years to complete my 50 places bucket list before I enter the 40's club. Any interesting ideas? My next trip is to the pink city - Jaipur in India. I've been there many times but still looking forward to it especially the food. More on follow after the trip.

Blue mosque, Istanbul

There are very few places on this planet which provides a unique architecture, history and spirituality at the same place. Blue mosque is one of those places. From outside you can’t stop admiring the size and majesty of its structure until you step into the courtyard which is as big as the mosque itself, but the true realization of its grandness happens as soon as you step inside the mosque that is adorned by the blue tiles, from which it gets its western name – Blue mosque. It is considered as the last great mosque of the classical period and it always will be.

Naturally the place ranks at top in any guide book on Istanbul, so it often gets crowded with thousands of tourists that visit the mosque everyday. This is one of the occasions when I really feel the power of the politicians of the world when the mosque is vacated for their visit. You can’t get luckier than that. Since I didn’t have the power I tried creating my own luck and visited the mosque at 6am even though the hotel concierge said that the mosque opens at 9am. I couldn’t believe that the mosque opens that late as there must be people offering prayers much earlier than that so I tried to use my bit of intelligence and luck; and I was truly rewarded with the peace and serenity inside the mosque.

Certain things in life are to be enjoyed in sheer silence to feel the space and moment like the blue mosque.  

You sit there in silence and you can feel the power

You sit there and you can’t stop admiring the sheer beauty of the dome, the minarets, and the myriad number of designs on the beautiful blue tiles

You sit there and you flee away from your darkest fears

You sit there and you want to pray, to believe in God

You sit there and you want to embrace life and for all that it symbolizes

You sit there and you just want to sit there forever

It is truly a remarkable place. The only other place where I felt the same was at the Lotus Temple in India.

An interesting bit of history is the mosque was built by its leader without any symbolic victory and just out of public funds which lead to controversy and criticism by the Ottoman population. If the ottoman population could only see how public funds are used in modern era to save disgraced banks and companies they would have praised their leaders for at least creating something symbolic that would be admired for centuries to come.

I think the Blue Mosque is everything and lot more than what I expect from a symbolic structure like it.