Two guys are walking up and down, their eyes fixated on people to make sure that no one is engaged in prohibited activity. I bend my head, trying to hide behind a seat, making sure that no one is looking and sneak out a packet from my bag. Just then, hungry eyes prowl on me from two seats away, sending a message “I want a cut or I’m calling in”. Ignoring him, I take my chances and put the chips in my mouth indulging in piquant pleasure.
This is not a story from the war front, but from AirAsia flight where passengers should buy food (and even water) on board or face starvation.
This is not a story from the war front, but from AirAsia flight where passengers should buy food (and even water) on board or face starvation.
I was headed to Penang, the food mecca of Asia and I was not ready to succumb to airline food.
The destination - Penang
Penang, an island occupied by many different forces including the British, Germans and Japanese historically. A city was once a staging post for the opium trades between India and China. A city where East India Company auctioned off licenses to gambling dens, brothels and opium traders (which accounted for approximately 60% of colonial Penang’s crime). A city that was bombed during wars, rocked with riots and bloodsheds between civilians. An island that continues to charm and attract people from all around the world with its colonial street names, heritage buildings and most importantly its fascinating food influenced by various ethnic groups that migrated to this little island over the many years, since it was founded in 16th century.
The food (Muthu’s banana leaf rice)
I’m a big fan of Anthony Bourdain’s “No reservations” because he manages to explore some of the best food in every city. I wish I had more time to explore the unexplored, but given the time constraint I normally just create a list of cuisines/restaurants, following the traces of other popular food enthusiasts.
Based on Anthony Bourdain’s recent trip to Penang, I had already put Muthu’s on top of my list, which serves traditional banana leaf rice. A small, shabby looking hidden den without any sign board is very easy to be overlooked. Even if you did manage to take a sneak peak, you would quickly write it off, thinking of it as a place that serves food to the less privileged. This little place without any décor or ambience has a high turnover where customers don’t sit sipping drinks and gossiping. The rule is simple: sit, eat and get out.
Don’t let your eyes deceive your taste buds with the trashy ambience, and just relish the food, which really explains why the Portuguese and British traveled all the way to the east in search of spices. The spices seemed to be in perfect harmony, reflecting the skills of the chef who can use the same set of spices to create so many different flavors.
Unlimited rice, assortment of curries, pickles, curried meat/fish etc would cost you less than two dollars. Obviously there is a reason that there is no sign board.
We decided to explore the popular New Lane hawkers’ street. The lane was buzzing with numerous small stalls. Looking at all those stalls, I felt like a little boy left alone into the candy store.
The long queue at the Char Koay Teow stall was not going to dampen my spirit. After a 30 minutes wait, I had my prized treasure in my hand. The prawns, eggs, chilly, clams and flat noodles cooked perfectly in a wok, over burning hot charcoal, exquisite blend of texture and taste. This one dish was worth the trip to Penang. We also tried few other dishes but nothing could beat Char Koay Teow.
And then finally some more food (Halal food at Restoran Sultania)
It was already Sunday and it was time to go back. Time was slipping away but our quest for good food continued. Like a little kid, the more we got, the more we wanted. We had already tried Malay and Indian food, and Halal food was next on the list.
We decided that if we cannot stay back for dinner, why not take dinner with us to Hong Kong. We got packed two portions of chicken biryani packed from the halal Restoran Sultania. When we reached home, we make some lentil curry, popped open a bottle of wine and continued to relish Penang delicacies.
